92 Points, The Wine Front by Mike Bennie
Kilmore District wine region is not an official GI, but there’s pockets of land under vine. The vineyard this wine comes from is 40 years old and the wine is sent to bottle with no added sulphur.
Big hit of pepper and cumin spice with strong scents of wild raspberry, briar, mint and fennel. Almost like a crazy dessert smell, but not overtly sweet. Lovely stuff. Crisp, lightly crunchy texture with blisteringly fresh feeling red fruit character. Light-on, touch minty, brisk in acidity and finessed with fine, furry tannins. Length of flavour isn’t quite there, but it’s a really pleasing mouthful of joyous fruit, tamed well, and showing some savouriness in tow. Drinks really well.
It was great to taste this Browne’s Block Pinot alongside the Paul’s Range. To me it was like a his and hers range of Pinot was on show. The depth and ‘grab you by the canasters’ factor from the Browne’s Block has appeal as does the dainty and finesse offering from the Paul’s Range.
This Browne’s Block comes from 40 year old vines in Kilmore, a region without a GI. I loved it last vintage and I’m in the same camp this time too. Oh, and did I mention preservative free? Yep. No sulphur has been added here. Wild fermented took place and it was bottled with little filtration.
Cherry liqueur, forest floor, and turned soil run straight up the nasal cavity. Dark cherry fruit is on the front foot and powers through. There’s a softness to it too. That hard edge masculine brut with the three day growth yet softly spoken; you know the one. Tannins are juicy and the finish long and expressive.
Tasted over three days, this developed beautifully. It softened a treat and its personality changed each day. That’s the no sulphur bit talking.
Topping up the glass isn’t hard here. Have in the medium term. A wine perfect for a cool night with friends and laughs nearby.
Region: Yarra Valley